G L A Z I N G    O P T I O N S

    Convex Glass Pricing...

To cover or not to cover???

Well,  If it's canvas and you cover, you will probably end up with a big mold ball after a few months.
If it's anything other than canvas it probably should be protected by some form of glazing.

Exceptions always apply (and this is no exception). The most notable of which are today's high-tech family photos.  You know, you've all been there... "THE CHOICE".  "Well....would you like your print to be "on canvas" or on  paper"?

Although the obvious up-sell of the canvas print sometimes wins out, the majority of  product is produced on some form of paper.  Even then, a "canvas" or "brush-stroke" look is applied and then the kicker...a big spray coating of UV Lacquer that filters out 99.999999 % of potentially damaging light rays.
Well,  that coating acts just like a piece of UV glass would. Except for keeping the dust off your piece and not offering as much "surface protection", it's exactly the same.

We will discuss in this section ALL different forms of Glazing, and the pro's & con's of each.
HERE GOES...(in order of popularity)...(largely due to lack of option knowledge).

This is the normal everyday 1/8 (or less) thick clear glass you see on 99% of the stuff out there.  This is so for two main reasons...1). 99% of the stuff out there is crap and nobody gives a s_ _ _ if it fades or not...(fading discussed later).
2). IT'S CHEAP.  Whoever is trying to sell the end product to you is usually trying to keep the price as low as possible.  Good enough...Who can argue with a 99% market share anyway?

This is the answer to "not having glare to deal with while your print colors fade to nothing"...yes we're getting to the fade thing next.
There are some differences within the "non-glare" family that are important.  The ability to reduce glare (in non-glare glass) comes from "etching the glass surface, thereby diffusing it's reflection properties.  The older non-glare had both sides of the glass etched.  This usually caused the image being viewed to appear "fuzzy" or "blurry".  Today's non-glare is mostly ''single side etched" (yes you figured that one out huh?),...etched on one side only for twice the total clarity as the old stuff.
Non-glare still has it's limitations, especially when used in conjunction with a frame job requiring depth.  The farther non-glare is raised off the print surface, the fuzzier you image will get.  This form of glazing is not a good option for pieces with multiple layers of mats or mats with fillets.

While the same in appearance to regular glass, this glass is coated with "good stuff" that absorbs 99% of all "bad stuff" before it reaches your art.  How's that for vague?  Anyway...one side of this glass is coated with ultra-violet light absorbing material. This side faces your art and keeps it from fading.  The price difference between regular glass & UV is about +40%, but well worth the extra $$.
You may think this fade thing is overstated but most of you reading this don't get to (or care to) see under the mats or frame (where the print color is, what it started as).  If the print is over 6 months old, there is always discoloration.  The longer the time, the more drastic the fade.  Red's & Greens are the first to go, then yellows and blues.  BYE BYE LOVE. 

Here is a display in our store
showing the original photo of
a lady that was framed (under glass)
and hung in an office under 
fluorescent lighting. 

We had a new photo printed 
of the exact same negative and 
put it in the bottom right to show 
the effect of fading. 

This is obviously an 
extreme case, but the cost of 
printing the new photo was far more
than the price of initially using UV glass.

Same as above with the "etched" side. Note* UV non-glare is only available "single side etched".  

(or used to be very expensive)
Leroy Nieman Serigraph.

This piece has a white linen "fabric mat" on the top and a "acid-free" blue accent mat on the bottom (notice the white bevel on the blue). 

"Mat-wise" this piece is correctly framed.  "Glazing-wise" someone somewhere didn't use the UV glass. 

Result...yellowed print $12,000 or so down the tubes.  OOOPS.

Rugrats, shipping, safety, weight issues, clarity, sizing issues...ALL are good reasons for using acrylic (plexi-glass) or if you don't have clue..."plastic".  Acrylic in available with all the characteristics of  the glass we are discussing i.e. regular clear, non-glare, UV filtering clear & non-glare etc.  Basically the only down side to acrylic is it's "scratchability".  A little more care is needed when cleaning acrylic. You should use a soft cotton cloth (NO PAPER TOWELS) and a "non abrasive" cleaner.
Acrylic is clearer, lighter and safer than glass. You should ALWAYS use acrylic when an item is to be shipped.
At Baxter's we carry glass to 36" X 48".  All pieces exceeding these limits get acrylic.
One last acrylic thought....the thickness of the acrylic has alot to do with the appearance of the final product.  The small junkers can use the thin stuff (.020 - .060), but when the jobs get larger, the thickness needs to increase (so not to appear "wavy").
On 32 x 40 - at least .098    ------    On 40x60 or bigger -  at least .118 thickness.

These next types of glazing would belong to the "Specialty Category" (if there was one).  Kind'a like you getting a Hummer instead of a Jeep or a Lamborgini instead of a Lexus...like that.  Here Goes...

This is a "specialty" type of glazing that is "clear" (not etched like non-glare) yet yields 75-90% less reflection than regular glass.
It's ideal for frame jobs with depth that need to deal with the glare issue.  As with all good things there are drawbacks...
1). This glass DOES NOT like to be touched (remind you of anyone?).  It absorbs oils from you skin that can "soak in" to the pores of the glass and permanently "stain" it if not cleaned in a timely manner (with regular glass cleaner).
2). It DOES NOT like predominately dark art or mats.  The darker your materials, the more "out gassing" occurs.  Out gassing causes the "film" you see INSIDE some of your frame jobs.  This film REALLY shows up against the AR glass.  It turns a bright blue and looks horrid. AR is sized up to 36 X 48".

This glass is basically the same as "AR" discussed above but has a slightly more "etched" look.  It still can be used with dimensional art and still HATES to be touched.  "IP" requires rubbing alcohol as a cleaner and is sized up to 36 X 48"

"Water White" and "Crystal Clear" (and whatever else that starts with 2 of the same letters) is a form of glass that has less lead content.  When you look at the edge of a piece of glass, it's green right?   Well not the lead-free versions.  This glass is clear (like acrylic) and therefore lets the true color of the artwork show.  This is one of those "splitting hair" kind of things, but some people insist on it.


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